Monthly Archives: March 2010

March 29, 2010 · 9:20 pm

Goat Cheese, Pancetta and Chive Stuffed Mushrooms: Little Retro Rockstars

That’s right.  I’m about to take you on a blast from the past. When mushrooms collide with goat cheese, pancetta, chives and shallots, they transform into little retro rock stars. Still as cool as ever, they’re kind of like your crazy aunt who wears (and totally pulls off) groovy clothes from the seventies.  Everyone knows she’s quirky, but she still rocks.  Whether at a Bar Mitzvah, or an uppity steak house, she is the life of the party.  If there’s ever a lull in the conversation, she can tell you far-out stories of all the places she has been, man.

Stuffed mushrooms have graced the orange serving platters of Seventies cocktail parties,  fine china on white wedding tablecloths, and even the pages of Julia Child’s The Art of French Cooking.  Each mushroom reflects it’s own era.  Some are timeless, some are not.  Julia Child’s mushrooms brushed with butter and baked with swiss cheese, shallots, and parsley?  Timeless.  Cream cheese with spam and pineapple stuffed mushrooms? Not.  Crab stuffed mushrooms?  Timeless.  My stuffed mushrooms?  Not sure, but I can’t imagine how goat cheese and pancetta could go ever out of style.

These little rock stars have been places with me; have helped me celebrate big events  with friends and family.  Wedding showers and holidays.  Fancy schmancy dinners and one year olds’ birthday parties.  I’m convinced that good food helps fire up conversation, even if you’re endearingly awkward in social situations as I am.  “WHO MADE THESE MUSHROOMS?” is always a great conversation starter.

I turn into the groovy aunt as I wax poetic about whipping together goat cheese and cream cheese; crisping the salty pancetta (bacon’s more suave Italian cousin); sauteing shallots and and garlic in pancetta grease; tossing in chopped chives; stuffing the ridiculous mixture into mushrooms, and crowning them with panko, which turns golden and adds a crunch.  My mushroom partakers will know I’m quirky, but still think I rock.  You, my friend, will rock as well as you dazzle your friends with your stuffed mushrooms.

When man discovered mushroom, I believe his next thought was to pull out the stem and muse on the possibilities.  I’m convinced that the end of the world will happen when stuffed mushrooms cease to exist.  Keep humanity alive.  Make more stuffed mushrooms.  They disappear quickly.

Goat Cheese, Pancetta and Chive Stuffed Mushrooms

Makes up to 60 mushrooms(I know.  That’s a bit excessive.  You could use the extra filling on your morning bagel, or as a spread on a sandwich or wrap)

  • 1 1/2 lb to 2 lb crimini or Baby Bella Mushrooms
  • 1 package (8 0z) cream cheese (leave out of the fridge for 30 minutes to soften)
  • 1 log (6 oz) goat cheese (leave out of the fridge for 30 minutes to soften)
  • 3 oz thinly sliced pancetta*(see note)
  • 1/3 cup minced shallots
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 small bunch fresh chives, minced (about 1/4 cup) and extra for garnishing (if desired)
  • 1 cup panko (japanese breadcrumbs)
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/4 tsp ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400˚F

Wash and season the Mushrooms:

Pour some salt in your hand.  Wet each mushroom, and rub it in the salt to remove the dirt (this also seasons the mushrooms). Rinse and dry the mushrooms, then remove to a large rimmed baking sheet.

Mix cream cheese and goat cheese:

In a medium bowl, mix the cream cheese and goat cheese until combined.  Set aside

Cook the pancetta, and saute the shallots and garlic:

Heat a medium frying pan over medium-high heat.  Cook the pancetta until golden (about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side) until golden (the pancetta will crisp up as it cools).  Remove to paper towels.  When cool, crumble the pancetta and set aside.

In the same pan, saute the shallots in the pancetta drippings until softened (about 3 minutes).  Add garlic and cook for another minute.

Mix cream cheese and goat cheese:

In a medium bowl, mix the cream cheese and goat cheese until combined.  Add the crumbled pancetta, shallots and garlic, chives, salt and pepper.  Stir to combine.

Stuff the mushrooms and dip in panko:

Using a spoon, generously  fill each mushroom cap.  Dip the top of each mushroom in the panko, and then put back on the baking sheet.  Lightly spray the mushroom tops with olive or canola oil.

Bake:

Bake the mushrooms in a 400˚ oven for 12-18 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.

Notes:

  • Pancetta is Italian dry-cured pork belly similar to bacon.  Here in Denver, I buy mine from Sunflower Market or Whole Foods.  You can substitute regular bacon if necessary.
  • The filling can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated.





9 Comments

Filed under Appetizers, Side Dishes

March 21, 2010 · 8:45 am

Basic Pasta Sauce, Accessorized

Basic pasta sauce.  A misnomer, really.  Think of this sauce as your little black dress (or your go-to sport coat.); the versatile number that evolves through the years with your changing tastes.  Simple, but not plain.  Classic and stylish, you feel pretty (or perhaps studly) when you wear it out.  Wear it as is, or accessorize with the bling of your choice (or a manly tie).  

Just as my own little black dress is an important member of my wardrobe, my basic pasta sauce is a staple of my kitchen repertoire.  This sauce helped me get my feet wet in the kitchen. It started with some innocent dabbling, led to a few failed experiments, and eventually, a delightful sauce recipe that I rely on for a variety of dishes.  Once I figured out that I could make a sauce that was infinitely better than the just-okay versions sold at the store, I ditched the jar and never turned back.  

I know, I know, lately my head has been in the clouds, dreaming of sunny marmalade and frivolous bread pudding.  Alas, bread pudding is an entertainment meant for lazy Sunday afternoons.  On other, less-lazy days of the week, after a full day and a long drive home, I dream of different diversions; a mixed greens salad with homemade vinaigrette and a plate of whole wheat spaghetti with a spur of the moment variation on my basic sauce.  

 What we want to avoid here is the church-potluck version of pasta sauce–you know the kind I’m talking about, a jar of factory-made sauce, always slightly under-seasoned, baked with starchy overcooked pasta.  Not necessarily unpleasant, but flat in taste and lacking dimension. 

Think of the epitome of a tomato; tangy and sweet, savory and full-bodied.  My convictions tell me that a sauce featuring tomatoes should embody all of the same traits.  Even the best quality canned tomatoes need a little wake up by a few soon-to-be-not-so-secret ingredients.  

 All of the usual suspects can be found in this sauce; onions sauteed in olive oil, a little more garlic than you will think you should use (but will be happy you did), tomatoes and herbs.  The key is to invest a little time (really, just a little) to interact with your ingredients.  Throw everything together carelessly, and you will have quite a bland and lifeless excuse for a sauce that has so much potential (ie, potluck sauce).  

The key to your success?  Take the time to saute and layer.  Season and taste.  Season and taste again.   Splash in some sweetness and tang at the end to mimic what excites you about a ripe summer tomato.  Trust me on the parmesan rind; it adds a savory undertone and “meaty” body not usually present in vegetarian sauces.  Make it as is, or add your own spin. 

I hope that this “basic” sauce becomes your stylish little black dress (or manly sport-coat!), a faithful member of your cooking repertoire.  Just be careful though…  Gone will be the days of factory made sauces, and bland frozen pasta bakes.  Your efforts will be greatly rewarded when you sit down to enjoy the dinner that you made, from ingredients that you feel good about.  Try it on for size, and let me know how you accessorize!

Basic Pasta Sauce

 

  • 1 medium-large yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 6 medium cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
  • A couple glugs of olive oil, about 3 tablespoons
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 tablespoons good quality mixed italian herbs (like these), or 1/2 tsp each of basil, oregano, thyme, and marjoram
  • 1 piece (2-3 inches) natural parmesan rind, preferably parmigiano reggiano* (see note below), plus grated parmesan for topping
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • 1/4 tsp to 3/4 tsp crushed red pepper 
  • 1 28-oz can good quality whole peeled tomatoes*
  • 1 28-oz can good quality crushed or ground tomatoes*
  • Kosher salt to taste (suggested amounts can be found in the process)
  • 1 small bunch fresh basil or oregano, torn (Optional)

Saute

Heat olive oil over medium-high heat (make sure it’s hot before beginning).  When the oil is shimmering, add the onions.  If your oil is hot enough, you should hear a satisfying “kshhhh”.  Saute, stirring frequently until onion is softened, but not browned (about 6 minutes).  Add garlic and cook for another minute, until beginning to soften but not brown.  

Herbs, tomatoes, and salt

Add crushed red pepper, 1/4 tsp salt, and dried herbs.  Stir to combine.  Add tomato paste and stir to coat.  Add both cans of tomatoes.  Stir and break up the whole tomatoes with a wooden spoon.  

Taste your progress

Add 1/2 to 3/4 tsp more salt.  Know that kosher salt takes a little longer to dissolve than iodized or sea salt (which is why you’ll want to add it gradually)

Simmer and start the pasta

Add the parmesan rind to sauce and stir (the rind will simmer along with the sauce to add that savory undertone we talked about earlier).  Turn heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.  Remove the parmesan rind and discard.  Follow the package directions for your pasta of choice.  I am a fan of whole wheat angel hair.  Make sure to boil in salted water (more than you would think), and don’t rinse.  Try to time cooking your pasta so that the pasta and sauce are done at the same time.

Make it shine

Stir in balsamic vinegar and red wine vinegar.  Taste and add more salt if needed.  (If you are not sure, remove a small amount of sauce to a small bowl, add a little salt and taste.)  

Stir in the fresh herbs if using.  Toss with pasta, and top with grated parmesan and more fresh herbs.  

Notes

•Spend a little extra money to buy  good quality tomatoes.  I like Muir Glen or Whole Foods’ 365 brand

•A good block of parmesan cheese is a bit of an investment, but will last you a while.  It is a staple in my house, and lasts me about 2 months.  Costco sells big blocks of good quality parmigiano reggiano for much less than anywhere else.

Variations

  • Fennel: Add 1 small chopped fennel bulb and saute with the onion
  • Italian Sausage:  Brown first.  Remove from pan and saute onions and garlic.  Add meat back in before adding herbs and tomatoes.
  • Red Wine:  Splash in 1/2 cup red wine after sauteing onions and garlic.  Allow to cook down for a minute or so before adding other ingredients.
  • Shrimp Arrabiata:  Increase crushed red pepper amount.  Splash in 1/2 cup dry white wine such as sauvignon blanc and 1/2 c clam juice to pan after sauteing onion and garlic.  Allow to cook down for about a minute or so.   Continue with remaining ingredients.  Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano at the end.  Serve with grilled shrimp.

3 Comments

Filed under Main Dishes, Pasta

March 7, 2010 · 8:15 pm

Meyer Lemon Marmalade Bread Pudding

Project Snow Globe continues.  After all of the break-ups and make-ups, winter has finally decided to be reasonable, at least for today.  This afternoon I shed my jacket and scarf and emerged into the 58 degree sunshine to put life’s harder issues on hold and take a walk with my furry companion.

A leisurely walk.  A walk, when I had report cards to finish, dinner to make, and a blog entry to write.  However, the tenets of Project Snow Globe state that if there is real sunshine to be enjoyed, one must immediately leave the confines of the globe to seek warmth.  I had no choice, you see.

 Earlier in the week, when winter wasn’t being so reasonable, I decided to pop open another jar of make-shift sunshine (my Meyer Lemon Marmalade).  I daydreamed about marmalade-stuffed French Toast, puff pastry tarts, and marmalade-glazed bacon, but none of the above seemed warm enough, or bright enough (although I’m still holding out hope for the bacon).  

 I was in the mood for something impractical; like taking the long way on a road trip just to stop by the roadside stand with the juiciest peaches, or the cute pair of red shoes you know you shouldn’t buy, but you do anyways, just because they make you happy.  

 A failed stuffed French toast experiment turned out to be the happy accident that led to just what I needed; a humble dessert dressed up in a peppy new outfit:  Meyer Lemon Marmalade Bread Pudding.  Nobody needs bread pudding, per se…but why shouldn’t we allow ourselves to create something frivolous to be enjoyed just for it’s own sake? 

In the grand scheme of things, will it matter that I spent an hour thinly slicing Meyer lemons + 24 hours waiting for them to soak + an afternoon boiling, stirring, and canning?  Will it matter that I cubed the bread, tossed it in marmalade, tempered eggs to make custard, soaked bread, baked the pudding, and glazed it with marmalade?  

 Maybe not.  

 Will it matter that I created something just frivolous enough to make myself and some of my favorite people forget about the tough issues just for a moment to share a few blissful spoonfuls together? 

 I think it will. 

Meyer Lemon Marmalade Bread Pudding
Makes 6-7 servings (8 oz ramekins) 

May be made ahead and refrigerated overnight for breakfast, brunch, dessert. Or, if you are feeling particularly frivolous, an afternoon snack.

  •  1 loaf challah, brioche, or other good quality dense bread (about 1 pound)
  • 3 1/2 cups half and half 
  • 1 cup granulated sugar (make it a scant cup if you like less-sweet desserts)
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (or one vanilla bean, cut a slit lengthwise)
  • 1/2 cup Meyer lemon marmalade, plus additional for glazing
  • 2 tablespoons butter

Preheat the oven to 325˚ F and set an oven rack in the middle position.  Butter ramekins and set aside.

Prepare the Bread:

Remove the crust from the bread using a serrated knife.  Don’t worry if bits of the crust remain in the creases of the bread.  Cut bread into 1 inch cubes and put onto a baking sheet.  Toast bread for 20 minutes.  Remove from oven and allow to cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes.

Melt Butter and Marmalade:

Heat marmalade and butter in a small saucepan until butter melts.  Gently toss the bread cubes with the marmalade-butter mixture in a large bowl and set aside.

Make the Custard:

•Heat the half and half and vanilla bean (if using) in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to simmer.    Remove from the heat.  (if using vanilla bean, scoop out the middle with a small spoon and whisk into the half and half).

•In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract.

Temper the Eggs:

Combining hot liquid with cool eggs will probably result in scrambled eggs.  “Tempering” allows the eggs and half and half to be combined gradually into a silky custard

1/2 cup at a time, slowly pour the half and half into the egg mixture, whisking constantly until all of the half and half is combined.  

Soak the bread:

Pour the custard over the bread cubes, lightly tossing to combine.  Allow to sit for 30 minutes, occasionally pushing down the cubes into the custard with a spoon or spatula.  

Bake or Refrigerate:

Distribute the bread-custard mixture into the buttered ramekins.  Cover with plastic wrap  and refrigerate overnight, or bake for 25 minutes, or until the tops of the pudding start to turn golden.  Spoon 1 teaspoon marmalade over top of each ramekin.  Bake for an additional 5 minutes.  

If refrigerating, allow ramekins to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before baking.

6 Comments

Filed under Breakfast and Brunch, Desserts