Monthly Archives: April 2010

April 25, 2010 · 8:09 pm

Sunday Granola

A Sunday Kind of Breakfast

“I want a Sunday kind of love…One that lasts past Saturday night… When those Mondays and Tuesdays grow cold…and I need a love for all my life…”

Ella Fitzgerald wanted love;  The kind of love that lasts through bad hair days and utility bills. I am lucky to have my Sunday kind of love, but now what I really need is a Sunday kind of breakfast.  You know, for those mornings when I wake before the sun, and my Sunday love blinks sleepily at me from bed.

On my favorite mornings, eggs sizzle on the skillet. A preliminary glass of O.J. sits next to the stove. Two minutes up, French press knob down.  Eggs finish cooking as the toast pops up.  Newspaper open to the crossword puzzle while a sharpened pencil stands by.

Alas, we can’t always have such leisurely mornings, so let’s meet in the middle;  somewhere between “grab an apple and run,” and “luxuriate at the kitchen table with a frittata and a mimosa”.

Enter granola.  You’ll make it on a Sunday, wearing your favorite slippers.  Your entire house will smell like an apple crisp; nutty and laced with brown sugar and cinnamon.

Come Monday, your alarm will sound and a hint of sweet and spice will still be in the air, to remind you that your breakfast awaits.  There may not be crossword puzzles, or fluffy eggs over toast, but there will be granola…and that just may be enough to help you through to your next leisurely Sunday.

Sunday Granola

Adapted from Neal Fraser’s Fruit and Nut Packed Granola, via Food and Wine

I eat my granola simply, with almond milk.  If I feel fancy, I’ll put it over yogurt with fresh blueberries and honey.

  • 1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 cup)
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 1/3 (packed)  cup light brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3 3/4 cups rolled oats
  • 1 cup finely grated unsweetened coconut
  • 3 cups (12 ounces)  raw unsalted nuts (I use 3 oz each of unsalted pistachios, cashews, pecans, and sliced almonds)
  • 2 cups (10 ounces) mixed dried fruit, such as golden raisins, cranberries, blueberries, cherries, apple, etc…
  • 1 cup fresh orange juice

Preheat the oven to 275˚.  Cover two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine butter, brown sugar, honey, cinnamon, vanilla extract and salt.  Simmer until the butter is melted and the brown sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes.  Allow to cool slightly.

In a large bowl, combine the oats, shredded coconut and nuts.  Add the brown sugar mixture and stir to thoroughly coat.  Spread the granola on the baking sheets and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes (or until a deep golden color), stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, combine the dried fruit and orange juice in a medium bowl and let stand until fruit is plumped, about an hour.  Drain the fruit in a strainer, pressing down the fruit to remove excess juice.  Discard the liquid.  Stir the fruit into the granola on the baking sheet.  Bake for an additional five minutes.

Let the granola cool completely.  It will crisp up as it cools.  After cooling, the granola can be stored in an airtight container for up to two weeks.  To re-crisp, bake in a 275˚ oven for 15 minutes.


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Filed under Breakfast and Brunch

April 18, 2010 · 7:51 pm

Samosa Pie + Tamarind & Coriander Chutneys

Now that we’re better acquainted, I feel I should let you in on a little secret.  I have a problem.  Everyone tends to have at least one category of items where impulse control goes out the window.  For some, it’s shoes.  My grandma collects little spoons from touristy shops and displays them on a spoon hanger (or whatever it’s called).  My aunt collects scotty dogs, both real and not.  The hubs reads about all the technology that could someday grace our house, if only we had excessive amounts of cash.  Me?  Instead of boring you with the details, let me just show you a few pictures.  Step inside my humble abode.

To begin with…

And then there’s…

and…

Don’t forget about…

And finally,

My spices take me to far away places, to places I long to visit.  And, they remind me of the places I have already been.

Basil, garlic, crushed red pepper…my new (and only) husband and I sit tucked in the corner of a busy ristorante’s outdoor patio, under a starry Tuscan sky eating fresh seafood, soaking in the sounds of clinking glasses and intoxicating Italian conversation.

Ras al Hanout, cinnamon and saffron…I think of a far away but dear friend in Casablanca as she goes to the market to buy a live chicken,  and to the “feuille” (or as Karissa puts it, “The Filo Man”) in preparation for the evening’s supper.

Turmeric, cumin , black mustard seeds…I am wandering through the streets of Delhi, the aroma of street food wafts and weaves through brightly colored saris and “free-range” cows; which leads me to expound upon one of my favorite Indian “snacks”.

Samosas.  Typically, savory little pockets filled with potatoes, peas and spices, sold on street carts as snacks in India, and as appetizers here in the U.S.  Think of an Indian version of an empanada, or of spanokopita.

Phyllo dough is a quick(er) way to make a slightly un-traditional version of samosas…or so I thought.  Oh, phyllo dough…I love you and hate you at the same time.

Picture this: It’s 8:00 pm, the kitchen has exploded and I cannot see the surface of my counters.  Almost every dish in the house has been used (because I had the bright idea that making a vegetable dish, samosas, and two kinds of chutney would somehow be easy).

I am stuffing delicate squares of phyllo, coaxing them to stick to each other, and not my fingers.  It was such a romantic idea…The kitchen sparkles, and I emerge into the dining room with my little savory pockets, and chutney in cute little dishes.  Instead, I pronounce to anyone within earshot, “I’m making samosa pie!”

Out comes the pie pan, in goes the filling, on goes the phyllo and into the oven.  Bake, sit, wait, ta-da!

It was like I did it on purpose!

Samosa Pie

Inspired by the samosas of Madhur Jaffrey and Suvir Saran

Samosa pie is filling enough to be eaten as a main dish with chutney, but also could be paired with your favorite Indian dish.  I know the ingredient list looks daunting.  However, most ingredients are spices that can be purchased on the cheap from Indian grocery stores and specialty spice shops (see my notes below for my favorite places).   Once you have a set of commonly-used spices, you’ll be able to make (almost) anything!  Oh, and one last thing…Do make both chutneys.  The sweet tanginess of the tamarind and the herbal spiciness of the coriander complement each other and the pie.

  • 1 8-oz roll phyllo dough (1/2 package),** thawed at room temperature for 3 hours (leave in the plastic wrapper)**
  • 2 pounds russet potatoes (about 3 very large, or 4 medium)
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 3 medium garlic cloves, peeled and minced or pressed
  • 1 tablespoon peeled, and finely grated fresh ginger
  • 1/2 cup frozen green peas, thawed
  • 1 small jalapeño, very finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, plus additional to garnish (lower stems removed), finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 1/4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne (or more, if desired)
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • 4 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
  • About 1 1/2 teaspoons salt (salt to taste)

Preheat oven to 375˚.

Cover potatoes by 1 inch of water in a large saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for  15-20 minutes until potatoes are tender and can be pierced with a fork. Drain the potatoes and set aside.

Combine the fennel, cumin, mustard, coriander, turmeric and fenugreek in a small bowl.

Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat until hot and shimmering.  Add the onion and carrots and saute until tender but not brown, about 8 minutes.  Add the garlic, ginger, and jalapeño and cook for another minute or two.  Add the spices from the small bowl and stir until the vegetables are coated.

Add the potatoes to the vegetable/spice mixture and stir until coated.  Now, roughly mash the potato mixture  (it should look like a quite lumpy version of mashed potatoes).  Add the peas, cilantro, lemon juice, garam masala, and cayenne and salt to taste.

Drape the phyllo, 2 sheets at a time (10 to 12 sheets total), in a pie pan (as shown in the picture).  Put the potato mixture on top of the phyllo in the pan.  Fold the phyllo over the potato mixture.  Drape an additional 2 sheets of phyllo over top of the pie, and tuck in the extra dough tucking into the sides of the pie.  Brush the dough with olive oil.

Bake for 25-35 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.  Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve with tamarind and coriander chutneys.

Coriander Chutney

Adapted from Indian Home Cooking by Madhur Jaffrey

 

  • 2 medium bunches of cilantro, lower stems removed (about 8 oz without lower stem weight)
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • 1 small jalapeño or serrano pepper, coarsely chopped
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin (cumin is especially good when the seeds are toasted, then ground.  See note*)
  • 3/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt (or salt to taste)
  • 1/4 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)

Combine all ingredients in a food processor.  Blend until you have a smooth paste.  Store in a non-metallic bowl.

Tamarind Chutney

Adapted from American Masala by Suvir Saran

  • 1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon garam masala
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 1/4 cup sugar
  • 3 tablespoons tamarind concentrate

Combine all spices in a small bowl.  Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.  Add the spices, stir, and cook until fragrant, about a minute.  Add the water, sugar and tamarind concentrate.  Whisk until the sugar is dissolved.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium.  Simmer until thickened and syrupy (enough to coat the back of a spoon), 45 minutes to 1 hour (Saran says 20-30 minutes, but it always takes longer for me).  May be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Notes:

  • Savory Spice, a local spice shop in the Denver area sells spices by weight, in any amount (they will also ship).  The spices are always top quality, and I know that I will always find everything I need in one place.  Indian markets also sell large amounts of very reasonably priced spices.
  • Toasting cumin seeds:  Heat a medium frying pan over medium-high heat.  Add cumin seeds and stir or toss frequently until aromatic and slightly darkened.


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Filed under Main Dishes, Side Dishes

April 8, 2010 · 6:15 pm

A Trio of No-Knead Breads + Compound Butter

Ever watch a movie where a homely under-confident girl or guy goes from zero to hero?  Think Eliza Doolittle in My Fair Lady, or Peter Parker, the nerdy guy who morphs into Spider Man and fights evil villains like Doctor Octopus or Venom.

This is the tale of an underdog, a homely mass of dough made from humble ingredients, neglected for hours at a time.  When you see the gooey, sticky, bubbling blob in your bowl, you’ll start to doubt the magic.

You’ll wonder if you should be kneading, fussing over, or finessing the dough until it turns into a smooth elastic ball.  You might begin to think that the evil villain has taken residence in your bowl.  Don’t worry, this is a zero to hero story, remember?

A quick stir creates a shaggy dough.  Resist the urge to fuss.  Cover it up, and go do something else.  Sleep.  Wake up.  Eat breakfast, paint a picture, watch a movie.  Sprinkle in some flour, and fold the dough around in the bowl a little bit.  Don’t over-exert yourself though.  We wouldn’t want anyone to catch us kneading our no-knead bread.


Now, amuse yourself for two hours.  You could make some compound butter (a fancy name for jazzed up butter).  More on that later…

After almost a day of waiting, and very minimal effort on your part, your homely glob of dough will be ready to make it’s grand transformation from “blah” to “yeah!”.

Enter the dutch oven (ie:  cast iron pot);  the magic chamber that makes the impossible possible.  Jim Lahey, the most well-known mastermind behind the no-knead dutch oven method, calls the dutch oven “an oven within an oven.”  The hot cast iron imitates the evenly heated bricks of a domed brick oven, and the tight-fitting lid traps in the steam, which keeps the inside of the bread moist and gives the outside a solid, crackly crust.

After lid-on and lid-off cooking in the dutch oven, your hero will emerge.  Like many super-heroes, your bread will be attractive and solid on the outside (so solid, that it will sound a hollow “knock” when tapped), and tender and complex on the inside.

You may want to partake immediately.  I don’t blame you…but you must wait.  An hour, in order to achieve the best texture.

Be sure to make an extra boule or two…You may not be a zero, but baking this bread will surely make you a hero.  Even the most evil of villains melt into giggling little school-children at the smell of orange cardamom bread.

Basic No-Knead Bread + Variations

Adapted from  Jim Lahey, via Mark Bittman of the NY Times

3 cups bread flour

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast

1 1/3 cups water

cornmeal or additional flour for dusting

Mix

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, salt, yeast.  Add the water and mix with a wooden spoon or your hand until you have a very sticky, shaggy dough.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a dish towel.

Wait

Let the dough rest and rise for 12-18 hours, until the surface is dotted with bubbles and the dough doubles in size.

Fold and wait:

See “Notes” for an easier, less-sticky way to form your bread into a ball

When the first rise is complete, generously dust a cutting board with flour.  Use a rubber spatula to scrape the dough out of the bowl to the cutting board (it will be sticky).  Using lightly floured hands or a rubber spatula, gently fold the edges in toward the center, shaping the dough into a ball.

Generously coat a cotton towel (non-linty) with cornmeal.  Put the dough seam-side down on the towel and sprinkle with more cornmeal.  Fold the towel over the dough.  Allow the dough to rest for 2 hours, or until doubled in size.   30 minutes before the last rise is complete, place the dutch oven (cast iron pot) in the oven and pre-heat to 450˚ F.

Bake

Remove the pot from the oven.  Slide your hand under the towel, and turn the dough over into the pot.  (This will be messy, but no worries…it will round out as it bakes).

Cover with the lid and bake for 30 minutes.

Uncover and continue baking for about 15 minutes, or until the loaf is browned.

Cool

Remove the bread to a wire rack and allow to cool for an hour before eating.

 

Variations + Compound Butter

For all variations, combine the extra ingredients with the flour, and yeast, changing the amount of salt if directed, then proceed as you would for the basic no-knead bread recipe.

Orange, Honey and Cardamom No-Knead Bread

Add the following ingredients to the flour and yeast in the basic no-knead bread recipe, then proceed as directed.  Note that the amount of salt is reduced.

2 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon salt (instead of 1 1/2 in the basic recipe)

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 tablespoons honey

Sweet Orange-Cardamom Butter

Don’t let the name fool you–compound butter is much more simple than it sounds,  and it compliments the subtle sweetness of Orange, Honey and Cardamom No-Knead Bread.

1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 cup), softened (at room temperature)

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed orange juice

2 teaspoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 teaspoons dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon real maple syrup

In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients using a fork until smooth and well-combined.  Serve immediately, or if desired, spoon the butter from the bowl onto plastic wrap and roll into a log.  Refrigerate for 2 hours or up to one week.  Serve with Orange, Honey and Cardamom No-Knead Bread.

Parmesan, Cracked Pepper and Thyme No-Knead Bread

Add the following ingredients to the flour and yeast in the basic no-knead bread recipe, then proceed as directed.

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, picked from the stem

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

3/4 cup finely grated parmigiano reggiano, romano, or parrano cheese

1 teaspoon salt

Rosemary Lemon No-Knead Bread

adapted from Williams-Sonoma’s version of Lahey’s no-knead bread

Add the following ingredients to the flour and yeast in the basic no-knead bread recipe, then proceed as directed.

  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
  • 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

Notes:

•Less-sticky method:  Instead of removing the dough to a cutting board after the first rise, lightly sprinkle some flour over top of the dough in the bowl.  Using your hands or a rubber dough scraper or spatula, fold the edges of the dough in toward the center, forming a ball.  Cover with a towel and allow to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size.  When it comes time to bake the bread, generously sprinkle cornmeal in the bottom of the preheated dutch oven, and gently scrape and slide the dough into the pot.  Bake as directed.

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Filed under Breads, Jams, Jellies and Spreads